Initial Timing Instructions

The number one problem concerning engine driveability is ignition timing. The reason for this is two fold. Most guys use a timing light to set their timing, and they set it according to the specs in their service manual. Unfortunately timing lights are not reliable. Why, because a lot of guys use their old balancer, instead of replacing it. Many older balancers have a rubber ring that was pressed into place, between the inner and outer rings. Over time, these rubber rings dry out, causing the outer ring to slip. When this happens, the timing marks move, there-by making it impossible to use a timing light. The other reason, in theory, is that all Ford engines of that time period, run better, deliver more power, and get better gas mileage, when the ignition timing is advanced beyond factory specifications. As such, we recommend the following procedures for setting your timing. The only tools required are a 1/2" wrench, a good set of ears, and the ability to hear the engine ping.

Carb Adjustments

There are only three things that need to be adjusted on the carb, the choke, idle mixture, and idle speed. All three adjustments are very simple to do. However, before we explain how to adjust these settings, we should explain how the choke works.... The choke coil, when cold, provides just enough tension to close the choke plate, then gradually opens the choke plate when an internal coil is heated. The choke un-loader, by use of manifold vacuum, instantly opens the choke plate when the engine is started, but just a little bit. As the engine warms up, the choke coil will continue to open the choke plate, gradually opening it until the choke plate is in a fully opened position. As for the choke adjustments, there are two variables that effect cold starting, the climate and the engines condition. An engine in a warm climate requires a slightly different choke adjustment, than the same engine in a cold climate. A healthier engine also has more manifold vacuum, which may require a minor change in the choke adjustment. As such, there are two adjustments that may be required, one to the choke coil, and the other to the choke un-loader. The choke coil can be adjusted in the field, however the choke un-loader should only be adjusted by a qualified technician.

1)	To adjust the choke coil, start with a cold engine. Press the throttle pedal to the floor, then release it. The choke plate should be fully closed. Loosen all three screws and rotate the black choke cap, first clockwise until it opens, then counter-clockwise until it just barely closes. The idea is to get just enough tension to close the choke plate, but no more. Note: if the choke plate doesn't close completely, the engine will be hard to start when cold. If there is too much tension, the engine will stay on fast idle too long.
2)	To adjust the idle speed, start by warming up the engine. Once the normal operating temperature is reach, use a tachometer and adjust the idle speed screw until the engine idles at it's slowest speed. For most motors, this will be around 700-800 rpm. For performance motors, it will be around 800-1000 rpm, depending on the cam profile.
3)	The last adjustment is the idle mixture screw. Turn the mixture screw clockwise (in) until the engine starts to slow down. Then turn the mixture screw counter-clockwise (out) to obtain the maximum speed. While a tach is helpful, this can be done by ear.

Final Adjustments

1)

If you have a vacuum gauge, adjust the timing one more time, to archive the highest manifold vacuum possible at idle. Once this is done, take the car out for another test drive. If it pings, turn the distributor clockwise just a tad and retest. Again, you want to set the timing so the engine is very close to pinging, but doesn't. Oh yea... don't forget to snug the distributor bolt down when your done.

2)

The last step is to re-adjust the idle mixture screw to archive the maximum rpm's, and the highest manifold vacuum reading. When your finish, the engine should be running at peak efficiency.

Fuel Recommendations

We highly recommend the use of premium fuel in your six cylinder engine. Premium fuels have a higher octane rating which does a better job controlling pre-ignition and detonation, also called pinging. If you use a premium fuel, you can advance the ignition timing a tad bit further, there-by increasing both power and mileage.

Starting Instructions

1)	Press the throttle pedal all the way to the floor. This allows the choke plate to close.
2)	Pump the throttle pedal once or twice, to get a little fuel into the carb and manifold.
3)	Depress the throttle pedal half way to the floor, then start the engine.
4)	Once the engine fires, take your foot off the throttle pedal and let it idle.
5)	After the engine has been running for 20-30 seconds, tap the throttle pedal. This will set the fast idle cam on the second step, so the engine runs a little slower. That's it.

Miscellaneous Notes

A stock six cylinder engine, with a stock camshaft, should have approximately 20 inches of manifold vacuum (lower with a performance camshaft), and it should idle at 700-800 rpm (higher with a performance camshaft).